The mosquitoes were eating me alive. I purchased a new spray bottle of 100% DEET before the trip and could picture it sitting on the floorboard of the passenger side of my truck back at the put in.
As it got darker the mosquitoes just got thicker. I was considering smearing my exposed skin with mud, an ancient but messy method I have read was used by Native Creeks and Choctaws, when I found a mosquito net in the bottom of the dry bag I had used to pack my sleeping bag.
I strung my throw rope between two trees in the campground, centered the canoe under it and hung the net from the rope. I lay my sleeping bag in the bottom of the canoe and crawled into the mosquito net. It took a while to swat all the mosquitoes that hitched a ride under the net with me, but once I got most of them I was able to relax a little. Even with the net tucked under my sleeping bag the mosquitoes would find a way in and buzz around my face.
I had been attacked so early I had no supper. I settled for a couple of energy bars and eventually fell into a fitful sleep to the drone of thousands of mosquito wings outside the net.
Mosquitoes were not the only thing I was worried about that night. Although the night was cool, it was still warm enough for snakes and alligators to be active. I also thought a few times about wild pigs and bears. I was also a little concerned about people although everyone I have encountered in the Delta has been friendly and helpful.
I had not been asleep long when I was awakened by the sound of a motorboat approaching on the river. When the boat’s spotlight began flashing through the camp I realized they were looking for the campsite.
As the boat approached I turned on my flashlight and flashed them back. I could see a guy standing on the front deck of the boat with a line ready to tie onto the landing.
When he noticed me he seemed surprised and yelled: “Are y’all camping?”
Not ready to announce I was alone, I replied: “Yes, we are camping!”
He yelled back to me: “We’re ‘coon hunting, guess we’ll release the dogs up the river some! Sorry to disturb you. Have a good night!”
They changed course upstream and were out of hearing range before long. I lay back down in the canoe and stared at the first quarter moon knowing I would have a hard time getting back to sleep.
In a few minutes I could hear the baying of the hounds released up river of the camp. It sounded to me as if the dogs had found the scent of a raccoon upon release. Their howling continued for about an hour, rising and falling, and finally reaching a frenzied climax. Eventually I got used to the sound and fell asleep again.
In the morning I rose with the sun, loaded the canoe as quickly as I could (the mosquitoes never abated) and launched into the Tensaw River for the second day of paddling. From the Two Rivers Campsite I paddled downstream to the northern opening of Bottle Creek. I paddled past the western opening of Bayou Jessamine and found the small beach at the trailhead to the Bottle Creek Indian Mounds.
The Bottle Creek site on Mound Island, which is a National Historic Site, consists of multiple Indian mounds. The tallest mound is approximately forty-five feet high. It is truly amazing to hike through the low bottomlands and find the high mound rising from the earth. There is a trail leading to the top of the mound but the view mainly consists of the top of the tree canopy.
Further information on the site can be found through the University of South Alabama’s Archaeology site at http://www.usouthal.edu/archaeology/bc-bottle_creek.htm.
Information is also available on the National Park Service, National Historic Landmarks Program website at http://tps.cr.nps.gov/nhl/detail.cfm?ResourceId=1420&ResourceType=Site.
After visiting the mounds I pulled my canoe back in the water and headed back upstream, to the north, to the west entrance to Bayou Jessamine. The entrance is well marked with yellow Bartram Canoe Trail markers.
Bayou Jessamine is a narrow creek which connects Bottle Creek to the Tensaw River. It is tidally influenced, so at times the current may flow west from the Tensaw River toward Bottle Creek or east in the opposite direction.
(Note: Most of the Delta is tidally influenced, but especially in the lower reaches, so there is a possibility of water flowing in unexpected directions and creeks can seem to run dry in a matter of hours. If you find yourself high and dry you can either wait a few hours for the tide to come in or make a long, extremely muddy drag to deeper water.)
I happened to hit the creek while the tide was going out, so there was an easterly flow and I was having a good time being carried along on the current. Since I was not paddling more than correction strokes I was not making much noise.
I came around one bend and saw two old men sitting in a small fishing boat nestled up against the southern bank. They were fishing with long crappie poles and had the tips stuck up under the overhanging bank. They did not notice me as they were staring intently at their rod tips.
I was approaching their boat quickly and I did not want to surprise them, so I knocked my paddle against the side of my canoe. The old man in front almost jumped out of the boat when he glanced toward the sound and saw me gliding toward him. I hailed him and let him know I was sorry if I startled him. He and his friend, who I do not believe ever looked away from his rod tip, were clearly interested in continuing their fishing, so I just paddled on by.
When I reached the entrance to Jug Lake, which is about halfway down the bayou on the north side, I paddled in to take a look. Jug Lake is a beautiful shallow water lake tucked back in the Delta. The ADCNR now has a camping platform in Jug Lake which I have visited on several occasions; I will describe it in a later post.
After paddling to the end of Jug Lake I was running out of time so I made my way down Bayou Jessamine, across the Tensaw River, through Robinson Island and up Rice Creek to my truck.
I found my bug spray in the truck right where I left it. Despite the mosquitoes, I had a great trip. I allayed my doubts about a solo trip into the Delta and found all encounters therein to be enjoyable. If you are adventurous and take the proper precautions, you could enjoy a solo trip too. Just do not forget the bug spray!
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Monday, August 18, 2008
Solo Adventure, Part I
In September of 2003, after our day trips to the Delta, I was interested in an overnighter. I had the weekend of October 4 and 5, 2003 available for the trip. Paige was not interested so I resolved to go it alone. I have reasonable experience with solo adventures so I felt comfortable with the idea.
At the time ADCNR had posted maps and information for only a few canoe trails on the internet. They now have much more information, including more routes, available on their website. (Please note: The more direct route to the Bartram Canoe Trail information is http://www.outdooralabama.com/outdoor-adventures/bartram/index.htm. In my last post I sent you to the ADCNR Home Page; I have noticed it takes some navigation to find the canoe trail section.)
I was planning a leisurely trip with few fixed waypoints and no deadlines. Since I had some familiarity with Bayou Jessamine, I focused on that area. ADCNR’s Overnight Route #1 suggests paddling from Rice Creek Landing up Tensaw Lake to Bayou Tallapoosa, then south on the Tensaw River to the Two Rivers Point campsite. I knew the paddle through Bayou Tallapoosa would be a long trip. I did not want to be paddling alone in the Delta at night so I decided I would forego Bayou Tallapoosa and paddle more directly up the Tensaw River to the campground, spend the night and take my time getting home on Sunday following the return trip portion of Overnight Route #1 through Bayou Jessamine.
I printed a copy of the Overnight Route #1 map and gave a copy to my wife with my intended path marked on it. Leaving a trip plan like this is an essential safety practice and I always do it when I go into the wild. My wife is great about insisting I do not forget to leave my plan with her, or if she joins me, with a family member or friend who will look out for us. In fact, my wife is so insistent on a trip plan she posted a comment on my last post pointing out the fact that I did not recommend the practice. She is correct; it is an essential practice and may well save your life.
As expected I did not make it to Rice Creek Landing until after noon that Saturday. It always takes longer than expected to load the boat and gear and my efforts to get it done ahead of time are usually unsuccessful. Unfortunately, as I will explain, loading in a hurry has its dangers.
I was so late I decided to grab lunch at the Stagecoach Restaurant in Stockton. The Stagecoach is not a fancy place by any standard but the food is really good Southern cooking and the people are always friendly. I highly recommend you stop in either before or after your Delta adventure. The only issue you may encounter is the one I had that day: post-buffet lethargy.
By the time I got on the water I was thankful I had decided to bypass Bayou Tallapoosa. It was a beautiful afternoon with light winds and no clouds, perfect for a Delta paddle. I still had several hours to make it to the campsite and with the calm conditions I was not too concerned about making it by nightfall.
If you examine the maps you will notice the trail from Rice Creek to the Tensaw River follows a small creek which bisects Richardson Island. This small creek can be difficult to locate from the mouth of Rice Creek. The body of water first encountered as you exit Rice Creek is called Briar Lake. If you paddle straight across Briar Lake to Richardson Island and follow its contour to the south you will find the opening to the creek marked with the yellow Bartram Canoe Trail sign.
When you come out of this bisecting creek into Tensaw River you will see Robinson Island to the west. To get to Bayou Jessamine you paddle around the southern portion of Robinson Island and paddle directly across the Tensaw River to the eastern opening. I was planning on taking the Tensaw River north to the campsite so I took a right.
Once out in the Tensaw River the feeling of remoteness began to take hold. My muscles were warmed for the task of paddling and I was sloughing off the work week with each stroke. I really did not notice the few motorboats, mostly bass boats, which passed.
I did have one old fellow in a large aluminum boat slow to my pace and ask me if I was all right. I guess lone paddlers in the Delta are not a common sight. He did not bother me and I supposed he was just looking out for me, but the look on his face said he thought I was some kind of nut.
He was the last person I saw on the water that afternoon. As the sun began to near the horizon the water calmed and the birds began their evening song. I was enjoying the rhythm of my paddle strokes with the buzz of the cicadas and crickets; the croak of the frogs; and the pops of the fish feeding on the surface of the water. As I neared Two Rivers Point I was surprised by an owl which flew right over my head as I passed close to an overhanging branch. The sunset reflected on the river made my destination appear as paradise ahead.
I arrived at the campsite just as the sun began its final descent into the west. The campsite lies on top of a high bank along the south side of the Tensaw River. There is a metal stair affixed to the bank to facilitate getting out of your boat. Since the water drops off at the bank it took some careful maneuvering to get my gear out of the canoe and up the metal stairs to the campsite. I did not want to risk my canoe floating away so I pulled it up the bank and placed my gear back in the boat to keep things organized. I pulled out my camp chair and decided to watch the sunset.
As soon as the sun turned from yellow to orange the mosquitoes appeared in the hundreds, then thousands. This is when I realized I had forgotten to bring the bug spray.
To be continued…
At the time ADCNR had posted maps and information for only a few canoe trails on the internet. They now have much more information, including more routes, available on their website. (Please note: The more direct route to the Bartram Canoe Trail information is http://www.outdooralabama.com/outdoor-adventures/bartram/index.htm. In my last post I sent you to the ADCNR Home Page; I have noticed it takes some navigation to find the canoe trail section.)
I was planning a leisurely trip with few fixed waypoints and no deadlines. Since I had some familiarity with Bayou Jessamine, I focused on that area. ADCNR’s Overnight Route #1 suggests paddling from Rice Creek Landing up Tensaw Lake to Bayou Tallapoosa, then south on the Tensaw River to the Two Rivers Point campsite. I knew the paddle through Bayou Tallapoosa would be a long trip. I did not want to be paddling alone in the Delta at night so I decided I would forego Bayou Tallapoosa and paddle more directly up the Tensaw River to the campground, spend the night and take my time getting home on Sunday following the return trip portion of Overnight Route #1 through Bayou Jessamine.
I printed a copy of the Overnight Route #1 map and gave a copy to my wife with my intended path marked on it. Leaving a trip plan like this is an essential safety practice and I always do it when I go into the wild. My wife is great about insisting I do not forget to leave my plan with her, or if she joins me, with a family member or friend who will look out for us. In fact, my wife is so insistent on a trip plan she posted a comment on my last post pointing out the fact that I did not recommend the practice. She is correct; it is an essential practice and may well save your life.
As expected I did not make it to Rice Creek Landing until after noon that Saturday. It always takes longer than expected to load the boat and gear and my efforts to get it done ahead of time are usually unsuccessful. Unfortunately, as I will explain, loading in a hurry has its dangers.
I was so late I decided to grab lunch at the Stagecoach Restaurant in Stockton. The Stagecoach is not a fancy place by any standard but the food is really good Southern cooking and the people are always friendly. I highly recommend you stop in either before or after your Delta adventure. The only issue you may encounter is the one I had that day: post-buffet lethargy.
By the time I got on the water I was thankful I had decided to bypass Bayou Tallapoosa. It was a beautiful afternoon with light winds and no clouds, perfect for a Delta paddle. I still had several hours to make it to the campsite and with the calm conditions I was not too concerned about making it by nightfall.
If you examine the maps you will notice the trail from Rice Creek to the Tensaw River follows a small creek which bisects Richardson Island. This small creek can be difficult to locate from the mouth of Rice Creek. The body of water first encountered as you exit Rice Creek is called Briar Lake. If you paddle straight across Briar Lake to Richardson Island and follow its contour to the south you will find the opening to the creek marked with the yellow Bartram Canoe Trail sign.
When you come out of this bisecting creek into Tensaw River you will see Robinson Island to the west. To get to Bayou Jessamine you paddle around the southern portion of Robinson Island and paddle directly across the Tensaw River to the eastern opening. I was planning on taking the Tensaw River north to the campsite so I took a right.
Once out in the Tensaw River the feeling of remoteness began to take hold. My muscles were warmed for the task of paddling and I was sloughing off the work week with each stroke. I really did not notice the few motorboats, mostly bass boats, which passed.
I did have one old fellow in a large aluminum boat slow to my pace and ask me if I was all right. I guess lone paddlers in the Delta are not a common sight. He did not bother me and I supposed he was just looking out for me, but the look on his face said he thought I was some kind of nut.
He was the last person I saw on the water that afternoon. As the sun began to near the horizon the water calmed and the birds began their evening song. I was enjoying the rhythm of my paddle strokes with the buzz of the cicadas and crickets; the croak of the frogs; and the pops of the fish feeding on the surface of the water. As I neared Two Rivers Point I was surprised by an owl which flew right over my head as I passed close to an overhanging branch. The sunset reflected on the river made my destination appear as paradise ahead.
I arrived at the campsite just as the sun began its final descent into the west. The campsite lies on top of a high bank along the south side of the Tensaw River. There is a metal stair affixed to the bank to facilitate getting out of your boat. Since the water drops off at the bank it took some careful maneuvering to get my gear out of the canoe and up the metal stairs to the campsite. I did not want to risk my canoe floating away so I pulled it up the bank and placed my gear back in the boat to keep things organized. I pulled out my camp chair and decided to watch the sunset.
As soon as the sun turned from yellow to orange the mosquitoes appeared in the hundreds, then thousands. This is when I realized I had forgotten to bring the bug spray.
To be continued…
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