Friday, December 26, 2008
Jug Lake Canoe Camping Trip, December 16 & 17, 2006
This is a short video of the camping trip Paige and I took on December 16-17, 2006 to the Jug lake Platform on the Bartram Canoe Trail in the Mobile-Tensaw Delta.
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Gulf State Park "Primative" Camping
A few weekends ago I was sitting in front of a fire at home when a friend, Scott, called to ask if my three year old daughter, Kelley, and I wanted to join him and his four year old son, Wyatt, for a camping trip at the Gulf State Park in Gulf Shores, Alabama.
The Gulf State Park camping area is on the north side of Middle Lake which is just east of Lake Shelby. While the campground is geared more toward RV camping, we were comfortable in our tents. There are picnic tables at each site, small charcoal grills and RV-type hook-ups for water, sewer and electric. Tent camping is definitely not the norm, but there were other tents scattered about.
Camping with children can be especially challenging and having a clean bathroom nearby is especially helpful. If you camp with kids it is a good idea to ask for a site close to the bathroom. The Park's restroom was just across the street from our campsite and was clean, well-lighted and convenient.
Middle Lake does have alligators and snakes, so keep an eye out for them in warmer weather. I have seen snakes in South Alabama even in winter months; if it is warm they may become active. Our campsite was on the lake so we had to be careful.
We tried some fishing but did not catch anything substantial. I did hook a small speckled trout but he got off the line before I could bring him in. I understand the park lakes are still recovering from the damage done by recent hurricanes, so the fishing may be better in the future. It would have been easy to launch a canoe from the bank, which would have opened up the fishing opportunities on the lake. (Note: The new and improved Gulf State Park fishing pier is slated to open in March, 2009, which will allow convenient no-boat access to some excellent salt water fishing.)
We had a good time during the evening. We built a campfire in the small iron grill. It provided some ambiance, but not a lot of heat since the grill is about three feet off the ground. Much to my surprise Kelley fell asleep around six o'clock, so I was able to relax in front of the fire without keeping up with her.
One thing we did not expect was Hank Williams, Jr. At first I thought one of our neighbors was being inconsiderate, but I finally realised we were hearing a concert at The Wharf, an amphitheater venue in Orange Beach. Thankfully the music did not last too late so it was not really a big problem. I don't imagine the people in RVs could hear the concert, but in our tents it was loud and clear. If the music would bother you I suggest checking the concert schedule before planning a trip. Hank wasn't too bad, but a heavy metal band could be different!
We were up at sunrise in the morning and were able to enjoy the sound of waves crashing on the beach. Kelley and Wyatt got to play while Scott and I enjoyed a cup of coffee. Kelley and I had some plans for later in the morning so we all packed up and were out of the campground by nine o'clock or so.
Kelley and I had a great time at the Gulf State Park. I would recommend the campground to families interested in camping with convenience. There are many recreational opportunities in the Park, including biking, nature trails, boating, fishing and golf. In addition, the cities of Gulf Shores and Orange Beach have excellent restaurants and entertainment. Additional information on the park can be found at http://www.outdooralabama.com.
The Gulf State Park camping area is on the north side of Middle Lake which is just east of Lake Shelby. While the campground is geared more toward RV camping, we were comfortable in our tents. There are picnic tables at each site, small charcoal grills and RV-type hook-ups for water, sewer and electric. Tent camping is definitely not the norm, but there were other tents scattered about.
Camping with children can be especially challenging and having a clean bathroom nearby is especially helpful. If you camp with kids it is a good idea to ask for a site close to the bathroom. The Park's restroom was just across the street from our campsite and was clean, well-lighted and convenient.
Middle Lake does have alligators and snakes, so keep an eye out for them in warmer weather. I have seen snakes in South Alabama even in winter months; if it is warm they may become active. Our campsite was on the lake so we had to be careful.
We tried some fishing but did not catch anything substantial. I did hook a small speckled trout but he got off the line before I could bring him in. I understand the park lakes are still recovering from the damage done by recent hurricanes, so the fishing may be better in the future. It would have been easy to launch a canoe from the bank, which would have opened up the fishing opportunities on the lake. (Note: The new and improved Gulf State Park fishing pier is slated to open in March, 2009, which will allow convenient no-boat access to some excellent salt water fishing.)
We had a good time during the evening. We built a campfire in the small iron grill. It provided some ambiance, but not a lot of heat since the grill is about three feet off the ground. Much to my surprise Kelley fell asleep around six o'clock, so I was able to relax in front of the fire without keeping up with her.
One thing we did not expect was Hank Williams, Jr. At first I thought one of our neighbors was being inconsiderate, but I finally realised we were hearing a concert at The Wharf, an amphitheater venue in Orange Beach. Thankfully the music did not last too late so it was not really a big problem. I don't imagine the people in RVs could hear the concert, but in our tents it was loud and clear. If the music would bother you I suggest checking the concert schedule before planning a trip. Hank wasn't too bad, but a heavy metal band could be different!
We were up at sunrise in the morning and were able to enjoy the sound of waves crashing on the beach. Kelley and Wyatt got to play while Scott and I enjoyed a cup of coffee. Kelley and I had some plans for later in the morning so we all packed up and were out of the campground by nine o'clock or so.
Kelley and I had a great time at the Gulf State Park. I would recommend the campground to families interested in camping with convenience. There are many recreational opportunities in the Park, including biking, nature trails, boating, fishing and golf. In addition, the cities of Gulf Shores and Orange Beach have excellent restaurants and entertainment. Additional information on the park can be found at http://www.outdooralabama.com.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Tractors Are Just Plain Difficult.
My daughter, Kelley, and I met my brother, Jamey, and his two sons in Lower Peach Tree this past weekend. The plan was to cut some of the roads and a few of the old fields and maybe plant some wildlife food plots. We also planned to install two gates and a fence at the now wide-open end of a power line that cuts across the property.
I admit our plans were ambitious. Jamey and the boys came down Friday night hauling our tractor with the post hole digger attachment. Kelley and I drove up Saturday morning with a friend's bush hog and box blade. If you have never hauled a tractor you may not understand how monumental the undertaking can be. You see, tractors are just plain difficult.
Kelley and I left Saturday morning but had to make a few stops for supplies, so we did not get up there until after noon. We dug some post holes and cut some grass, but we ended up working on the bush hog for a while and before long it was dark.
Kelley woke me up at sunrise, as she does daily, and we went for a walk along the ridge. We saw five deer playing under the power line. When we got back to camp Jamey showed me the front tire on the tractor was flat. We were able to inflate it but it kept leaking through the day.
Jamey was able to cut the Downtown Field and Road and part of the Middle Road, but the tire eventually could not take any more abuse and lay flat for good. It took us a couple more hours to load all the equipment back on the trailers and get on the road.
We did not accomplish everything we planned to do, but considering the tractor troubles we did alright. Kelley and I got home last night at about 8:00pm, worn out and tired of fooling with tractors!
I admit our plans were ambitious. Jamey and the boys came down Friday night hauling our tractor with the post hole digger attachment. Kelley and I drove up Saturday morning with a friend's bush hog and box blade. If you have never hauled a tractor you may not understand how monumental the undertaking can be. You see, tractors are just plain difficult.
Kelley and I left Saturday morning but had to make a few stops for supplies, so we did not get up there until after noon. We dug some post holes and cut some grass, but we ended up working on the bush hog for a while and before long it was dark.
Kelley woke me up at sunrise, as she does daily, and we went for a walk along the ridge. We saw five deer playing under the power line. When we got back to camp Jamey showed me the front tire on the tractor was flat. We were able to inflate it but it kept leaking through the day.
Jamey was able to cut the Downtown Field and Road and part of the Middle Road, but the tire eventually could not take any more abuse and lay flat for good. It took us a couple more hours to load all the equipment back on the trailers and get on the road.
We did not accomplish everything we planned to do, but considering the tractor troubles we did alright. Kelley and I got home last night at about 8:00pm, worn out and tired of fooling with tractors!
Monday, October 20, 2008
Vacationing in a Bad Economy
Gas is coming down from the $4.00 mark, but $2.75 is bad enough to cramp the vacation budget. It is time to examine the local getaways. In my area we have adventure opportunities around every corner: hunting, fishing, camping, biking, hiking, golf, sailing, and much more. I used to think I had to be far away to "be away", but if I am in the woods (without my cell phone) am I not far enough? Take a look around and get outside. Do not let these tough times make you feel you cannot take some time for stress relief. Find something local, ride your bike there and have some fun!
Sunday, September 14, 2008
I've Been Away Too Long
So sorry. The last few weeks have been too hectic to write. Hurricanes on the horizon are distracting.
Like so many on the Gulf Coast we spent days preparing for Gustav. It blew a little and rained about .25" at my house, that is it. Not that I am complaining. We just got lucky.
Then Ike showed up and we were just too tired to get excited about it although the projections included our area in the realm of possible landfall. Although the eye hit Texas, the storm got pretty close and we were affected by the storm surge and wind gusts up to 35 mph.
We were supposed to go to New Orleans Saturday. An old friend was going to be there for a conference but Ike was just too close so we called it off. He sent me an email Thursday saying he and his wife got to the airport in San Fransisco, looked at the weather and decided Hawaii would be more relaxing. I am sure it was.
The line of tropical waves has subsided and we are feeling a little less anxious down here. Texas and Louisiana have to do some cleaning up and rescuing. Our thoughts and prayers are with them.
I am working on a story about a sailing trip I took with some friends in 1989, my last Spring Break as an undergraduate. It was quite an adventure and I hope I can entertain you with the story. Please check back in a few days for the first installment; it should be fun.
Like so many on the Gulf Coast we spent days preparing for Gustav. It blew a little and rained about .25" at my house, that is it. Not that I am complaining. We just got lucky.
Then Ike showed up and we were just too tired to get excited about it although the projections included our area in the realm of possible landfall. Although the eye hit Texas, the storm got pretty close and we were affected by the storm surge and wind gusts up to 35 mph.
We were supposed to go to New Orleans Saturday. An old friend was going to be there for a conference but Ike was just too close so we called it off. He sent me an email Thursday saying he and his wife got to the airport in San Fransisco, looked at the weather and decided Hawaii would be more relaxing. I am sure it was.
The line of tropical waves has subsided and we are feeling a little less anxious down here. Texas and Louisiana have to do some cleaning up and rescuing. Our thoughts and prayers are with them.
I am working on a story about a sailing trip I took with some friends in 1989, my last Spring Break as an undergraduate. It was quite an adventure and I hope I can entertain you with the story. Please check back in a few days for the first installment; it should be fun.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Why Do We Live Here
I think "why do we live here?"
as the wind blows from the South,
across the ocean water,
gathering rain in its mouth.
When it starts churning
and gathers speed,
we start looking around the house
to see if we have what we need.
Its like a lottery you don't buy a ticket for
but might lose anyway;
one day the skies are nice and calm,
the next you're blown away.
Then the storm passes through
and we pick up all the mess,
the limbs and sticks from everywhere;
it puts your patience to the test.
Before too long,
the blue skies return and we get a little rest,
we realise why we stay:
we think this place is the best.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Bartram Conoe Trail - Solo Adventure, Part II
The mosquitoes were eating me alive. I purchased a new spray bottle of 100% DEET before the trip and could picture it sitting on the floorboard of the passenger side of my truck back at the put in.
As it got darker the mosquitoes just got thicker. I was considering smearing my exposed skin with mud, an ancient but messy method I have read was used by Native Creeks and Choctaws, when I found a mosquito net in the bottom of the dry bag I had used to pack my sleeping bag.
I strung my throw rope between two trees in the campground, centered the canoe under it and hung the net from the rope. I lay my sleeping bag in the bottom of the canoe and crawled into the mosquito net. It took a while to swat all the mosquitoes that hitched a ride under the net with me, but once I got most of them I was able to relax a little. Even with the net tucked under my sleeping bag the mosquitoes would find a way in and buzz around my face.
I had been attacked so early I had no supper. I settled for a couple of energy bars and eventually fell into a fitful sleep to the drone of thousands of mosquito wings outside the net.
Mosquitoes were not the only thing I was worried about that night. Although the night was cool, it was still warm enough for snakes and alligators to be active. I also thought a few times about wild pigs and bears. I was also a little concerned about people although everyone I have encountered in the Delta has been friendly and helpful.
I had not been asleep long when I was awakened by the sound of a motorboat approaching on the river. When the boat’s spotlight began flashing through the camp I realized they were looking for the campsite.
As the boat approached I turned on my flashlight and flashed them back. I could see a guy standing on the front deck of the boat with a line ready to tie onto the landing.
When he noticed me he seemed surprised and yelled: “Are y’all camping?”
Not ready to announce I was alone, I replied: “Yes, we are camping!”
He yelled back to me: “We’re ‘coon hunting, guess we’ll release the dogs up the river some! Sorry to disturb you. Have a good night!”
They changed course upstream and were out of hearing range before long. I lay back down in the canoe and stared at the first quarter moon knowing I would have a hard time getting back to sleep.
In a few minutes I could hear the baying of the hounds released up river of the camp. It sounded to me as if the dogs had found the scent of a raccoon upon release. Their howling continued for about an hour, rising and falling, and finally reaching a frenzied climax. Eventually I got used to the sound and fell asleep again.
In the morning I rose with the sun, loaded the canoe as quickly as I could (the mosquitoes never abated) and launched into the Tensaw River for the second day of paddling. From the Two Rivers Campsite I paddled downstream to the northern opening of Bottle Creek. I paddled past the western opening of Bayou Jessamine and found the small beach at the trailhead to the Bottle Creek Indian Mounds.
The Bottle Creek site on Mound Island, which is a National Historic Site, consists of multiple Indian mounds. The tallest mound is approximately forty-five feet high. It is truly amazing to hike through the low bottomlands and find the high mound rising from the earth. There is a trail leading to the top of the mound but the view mainly consists of the top of the tree canopy.
Further information on the site can be found through the University of South Alabama’s Archaeology site at http://www.usouthal.edu/archaeology/bc-bottle_creek.htm.
Information is also available on the National Park Service, National Historic Landmarks Program website at http://tps.cr.nps.gov/nhl/detail.cfm?ResourceId=1420&ResourceType=Site.
After visiting the mounds I pulled my canoe back in the water and headed back upstream, to the north, to the west entrance to Bayou Jessamine. The entrance is well marked with yellow Bartram Canoe Trail markers.
Bayou Jessamine is a narrow creek which connects Bottle Creek to the Tensaw River. It is tidally influenced, so at times the current may flow west from the Tensaw River toward Bottle Creek or east in the opposite direction.
(Note: Most of the Delta is tidally influenced, but especially in the lower reaches, so there is a possibility of water flowing in unexpected directions and creeks can seem to run dry in a matter of hours. If you find yourself high and dry you can either wait a few hours for the tide to come in or make a long, extremely muddy drag to deeper water.)
I happened to hit the creek while the tide was going out, so there was an easterly flow and I was having a good time being carried along on the current. Since I was not paddling more than correction strokes I was not making much noise.
I came around one bend and saw two old men sitting in a small fishing boat nestled up against the southern bank. They were fishing with long crappie poles and had the tips stuck up under the overhanging bank. They did not notice me as they were staring intently at their rod tips.
I was approaching their boat quickly and I did not want to surprise them, so I knocked my paddle against the side of my canoe. The old man in front almost jumped out of the boat when he glanced toward the sound and saw me gliding toward him. I hailed him and let him know I was sorry if I startled him. He and his friend, who I do not believe ever looked away from his rod tip, were clearly interested in continuing their fishing, so I just paddled on by.
When I reached the entrance to Jug Lake, which is about halfway down the bayou on the north side, I paddled in to take a look. Jug Lake is a beautiful shallow water lake tucked back in the Delta. The ADCNR now has a camping platform in Jug Lake which I have visited on several occasions; I will describe it in a later post.
After paddling to the end of Jug Lake I was running out of time so I made my way down Bayou Jessamine, across the Tensaw River, through Robinson Island and up Rice Creek to my truck.
I found my bug spray in the truck right where I left it. Despite the mosquitoes, I had a great trip. I allayed my doubts about a solo trip into the Delta and found all encounters therein to be enjoyable. If you are adventurous and take the proper precautions, you could enjoy a solo trip too. Just do not forget the bug spray!
As it got darker the mosquitoes just got thicker. I was considering smearing my exposed skin with mud, an ancient but messy method I have read was used by Native Creeks and Choctaws, when I found a mosquito net in the bottom of the dry bag I had used to pack my sleeping bag.
I strung my throw rope between two trees in the campground, centered the canoe under it and hung the net from the rope. I lay my sleeping bag in the bottom of the canoe and crawled into the mosquito net. It took a while to swat all the mosquitoes that hitched a ride under the net with me, but once I got most of them I was able to relax a little. Even with the net tucked under my sleeping bag the mosquitoes would find a way in and buzz around my face.
I had been attacked so early I had no supper. I settled for a couple of energy bars and eventually fell into a fitful sleep to the drone of thousands of mosquito wings outside the net.
Mosquitoes were not the only thing I was worried about that night. Although the night was cool, it was still warm enough for snakes and alligators to be active. I also thought a few times about wild pigs and bears. I was also a little concerned about people although everyone I have encountered in the Delta has been friendly and helpful.
I had not been asleep long when I was awakened by the sound of a motorboat approaching on the river. When the boat’s spotlight began flashing through the camp I realized they were looking for the campsite.
As the boat approached I turned on my flashlight and flashed them back. I could see a guy standing on the front deck of the boat with a line ready to tie onto the landing.
When he noticed me he seemed surprised and yelled: “Are y’all camping?”
Not ready to announce I was alone, I replied: “Yes, we are camping!”
He yelled back to me: “We’re ‘coon hunting, guess we’ll release the dogs up the river some! Sorry to disturb you. Have a good night!”
They changed course upstream and were out of hearing range before long. I lay back down in the canoe and stared at the first quarter moon knowing I would have a hard time getting back to sleep.
In a few minutes I could hear the baying of the hounds released up river of the camp. It sounded to me as if the dogs had found the scent of a raccoon upon release. Their howling continued for about an hour, rising and falling, and finally reaching a frenzied climax. Eventually I got used to the sound and fell asleep again.
In the morning I rose with the sun, loaded the canoe as quickly as I could (the mosquitoes never abated) and launched into the Tensaw River for the second day of paddling. From the Two Rivers Campsite I paddled downstream to the northern opening of Bottle Creek. I paddled past the western opening of Bayou Jessamine and found the small beach at the trailhead to the Bottle Creek Indian Mounds.
The Bottle Creek site on Mound Island, which is a National Historic Site, consists of multiple Indian mounds. The tallest mound is approximately forty-five feet high. It is truly amazing to hike through the low bottomlands and find the high mound rising from the earth. There is a trail leading to the top of the mound but the view mainly consists of the top of the tree canopy.
Further information on the site can be found through the University of South Alabama’s Archaeology site at http://www.usouthal.edu/archaeology/bc-bottle_creek.htm.
Information is also available on the National Park Service, National Historic Landmarks Program website at http://tps.cr.nps.gov/nhl/detail.cfm?ResourceId=1420&ResourceType=Site.
After visiting the mounds I pulled my canoe back in the water and headed back upstream, to the north, to the west entrance to Bayou Jessamine. The entrance is well marked with yellow Bartram Canoe Trail markers.
Bayou Jessamine is a narrow creek which connects Bottle Creek to the Tensaw River. It is tidally influenced, so at times the current may flow west from the Tensaw River toward Bottle Creek or east in the opposite direction.
(Note: Most of the Delta is tidally influenced, but especially in the lower reaches, so there is a possibility of water flowing in unexpected directions and creeks can seem to run dry in a matter of hours. If you find yourself high and dry you can either wait a few hours for the tide to come in or make a long, extremely muddy drag to deeper water.)
I happened to hit the creek while the tide was going out, so there was an easterly flow and I was having a good time being carried along on the current. Since I was not paddling more than correction strokes I was not making much noise.
I came around one bend and saw two old men sitting in a small fishing boat nestled up against the southern bank. They were fishing with long crappie poles and had the tips stuck up under the overhanging bank. They did not notice me as they were staring intently at their rod tips.
I was approaching their boat quickly and I did not want to surprise them, so I knocked my paddle against the side of my canoe. The old man in front almost jumped out of the boat when he glanced toward the sound and saw me gliding toward him. I hailed him and let him know I was sorry if I startled him. He and his friend, who I do not believe ever looked away from his rod tip, were clearly interested in continuing their fishing, so I just paddled on by.
When I reached the entrance to Jug Lake, which is about halfway down the bayou on the north side, I paddled in to take a look. Jug Lake is a beautiful shallow water lake tucked back in the Delta. The ADCNR now has a camping platform in Jug Lake which I have visited on several occasions; I will describe it in a later post.
After paddling to the end of Jug Lake I was running out of time so I made my way down Bayou Jessamine, across the Tensaw River, through Robinson Island and up Rice Creek to my truck.
I found my bug spray in the truck right where I left it. Despite the mosquitoes, I had a great trip. I allayed my doubts about a solo trip into the Delta and found all encounters therein to be enjoyable. If you are adventurous and take the proper precautions, you could enjoy a solo trip too. Just do not forget the bug spray!
Monday, August 18, 2008
Solo Adventure, Part I
In September of 2003, after our day trips to the Delta, I was interested in an overnighter. I had the weekend of October 4 and 5, 2003 available for the trip. Paige was not interested so I resolved to go it alone. I have reasonable experience with solo adventures so I felt comfortable with the idea.
At the time ADCNR had posted maps and information for only a few canoe trails on the internet. They now have much more information, including more routes, available on their website. (Please note: The more direct route to the Bartram Canoe Trail information is http://www.outdooralabama.com/outdoor-adventures/bartram/index.htm. In my last post I sent you to the ADCNR Home Page; I have noticed it takes some navigation to find the canoe trail section.)
I was planning a leisurely trip with few fixed waypoints and no deadlines. Since I had some familiarity with Bayou Jessamine, I focused on that area. ADCNR’s Overnight Route #1 suggests paddling from Rice Creek Landing up Tensaw Lake to Bayou Tallapoosa, then south on the Tensaw River to the Two Rivers Point campsite. I knew the paddle through Bayou Tallapoosa would be a long trip. I did not want to be paddling alone in the Delta at night so I decided I would forego Bayou Tallapoosa and paddle more directly up the Tensaw River to the campground, spend the night and take my time getting home on Sunday following the return trip portion of Overnight Route #1 through Bayou Jessamine.
I printed a copy of the Overnight Route #1 map and gave a copy to my wife with my intended path marked on it. Leaving a trip plan like this is an essential safety practice and I always do it when I go into the wild. My wife is great about insisting I do not forget to leave my plan with her, or if she joins me, with a family member or friend who will look out for us. In fact, my wife is so insistent on a trip plan she posted a comment on my last post pointing out the fact that I did not recommend the practice. She is correct; it is an essential practice and may well save your life.
As expected I did not make it to Rice Creek Landing until after noon that Saturday. It always takes longer than expected to load the boat and gear and my efforts to get it done ahead of time are usually unsuccessful. Unfortunately, as I will explain, loading in a hurry has its dangers.
I was so late I decided to grab lunch at the Stagecoach Restaurant in Stockton. The Stagecoach is not a fancy place by any standard but the food is really good Southern cooking and the people are always friendly. I highly recommend you stop in either before or after your Delta adventure. The only issue you may encounter is the one I had that day: post-buffet lethargy.
By the time I got on the water I was thankful I had decided to bypass Bayou Tallapoosa. It was a beautiful afternoon with light winds and no clouds, perfect for a Delta paddle. I still had several hours to make it to the campsite and with the calm conditions I was not too concerned about making it by nightfall.
If you examine the maps you will notice the trail from Rice Creek to the Tensaw River follows a small creek which bisects Richardson Island. This small creek can be difficult to locate from the mouth of Rice Creek. The body of water first encountered as you exit Rice Creek is called Briar Lake. If you paddle straight across Briar Lake to Richardson Island and follow its contour to the south you will find the opening to the creek marked with the yellow Bartram Canoe Trail sign.
When you come out of this bisecting creek into Tensaw River you will see Robinson Island to the west. To get to Bayou Jessamine you paddle around the southern portion of Robinson Island and paddle directly across the Tensaw River to the eastern opening. I was planning on taking the Tensaw River north to the campsite so I took a right.
Once out in the Tensaw River the feeling of remoteness began to take hold. My muscles were warmed for the task of paddling and I was sloughing off the work week with each stroke. I really did not notice the few motorboats, mostly bass boats, which passed.
I did have one old fellow in a large aluminum boat slow to my pace and ask me if I was all right. I guess lone paddlers in the Delta are not a common sight. He did not bother me and I supposed he was just looking out for me, but the look on his face said he thought I was some kind of nut.
He was the last person I saw on the water that afternoon. As the sun began to near the horizon the water calmed and the birds began their evening song. I was enjoying the rhythm of my paddle strokes with the buzz of the cicadas and crickets; the croak of the frogs; and the pops of the fish feeding on the surface of the water. As I neared Two Rivers Point I was surprised by an owl which flew right over my head as I passed close to an overhanging branch. The sunset reflected on the river made my destination appear as paradise ahead.
I arrived at the campsite just as the sun began its final descent into the west. The campsite lies on top of a high bank along the south side of the Tensaw River. There is a metal stair affixed to the bank to facilitate getting out of your boat. Since the water drops off at the bank it took some careful maneuvering to get my gear out of the canoe and up the metal stairs to the campsite. I did not want to risk my canoe floating away so I pulled it up the bank and placed my gear back in the boat to keep things organized. I pulled out my camp chair and decided to watch the sunset.
As soon as the sun turned from yellow to orange the mosquitoes appeared in the hundreds, then thousands. This is when I realized I had forgotten to bring the bug spray.
To be continued…
At the time ADCNR had posted maps and information for only a few canoe trails on the internet. They now have much more information, including more routes, available on their website. (Please note: The more direct route to the Bartram Canoe Trail information is http://www.outdooralabama.com/outdoor-adventures/bartram/index.htm. In my last post I sent you to the ADCNR Home Page; I have noticed it takes some navigation to find the canoe trail section.)
I was planning a leisurely trip with few fixed waypoints and no deadlines. Since I had some familiarity with Bayou Jessamine, I focused on that area. ADCNR’s Overnight Route #1 suggests paddling from Rice Creek Landing up Tensaw Lake to Bayou Tallapoosa, then south on the Tensaw River to the Two Rivers Point campsite. I knew the paddle through Bayou Tallapoosa would be a long trip. I did not want to be paddling alone in the Delta at night so I decided I would forego Bayou Tallapoosa and paddle more directly up the Tensaw River to the campground, spend the night and take my time getting home on Sunday following the return trip portion of Overnight Route #1 through Bayou Jessamine.
I printed a copy of the Overnight Route #1 map and gave a copy to my wife with my intended path marked on it. Leaving a trip plan like this is an essential safety practice and I always do it when I go into the wild. My wife is great about insisting I do not forget to leave my plan with her, or if she joins me, with a family member or friend who will look out for us. In fact, my wife is so insistent on a trip plan she posted a comment on my last post pointing out the fact that I did not recommend the practice. She is correct; it is an essential practice and may well save your life.
As expected I did not make it to Rice Creek Landing until after noon that Saturday. It always takes longer than expected to load the boat and gear and my efforts to get it done ahead of time are usually unsuccessful. Unfortunately, as I will explain, loading in a hurry has its dangers.
I was so late I decided to grab lunch at the Stagecoach Restaurant in Stockton. The Stagecoach is not a fancy place by any standard but the food is really good Southern cooking and the people are always friendly. I highly recommend you stop in either before or after your Delta adventure. The only issue you may encounter is the one I had that day: post-buffet lethargy.
By the time I got on the water I was thankful I had decided to bypass Bayou Tallapoosa. It was a beautiful afternoon with light winds and no clouds, perfect for a Delta paddle. I still had several hours to make it to the campsite and with the calm conditions I was not too concerned about making it by nightfall.
If you examine the maps you will notice the trail from Rice Creek to the Tensaw River follows a small creek which bisects Richardson Island. This small creek can be difficult to locate from the mouth of Rice Creek. The body of water first encountered as you exit Rice Creek is called Briar Lake. If you paddle straight across Briar Lake to Richardson Island and follow its contour to the south you will find the opening to the creek marked with the yellow Bartram Canoe Trail sign.
When you come out of this bisecting creek into Tensaw River you will see Robinson Island to the west. To get to Bayou Jessamine you paddle around the southern portion of Robinson Island and paddle directly across the Tensaw River to the eastern opening. I was planning on taking the Tensaw River north to the campsite so I took a right.
Once out in the Tensaw River the feeling of remoteness began to take hold. My muscles were warmed for the task of paddling and I was sloughing off the work week with each stroke. I really did not notice the few motorboats, mostly bass boats, which passed.
I did have one old fellow in a large aluminum boat slow to my pace and ask me if I was all right. I guess lone paddlers in the Delta are not a common sight. He did not bother me and I supposed he was just looking out for me, but the look on his face said he thought I was some kind of nut.
He was the last person I saw on the water that afternoon. As the sun began to near the horizon the water calmed and the birds began their evening song. I was enjoying the rhythm of my paddle strokes with the buzz of the cicadas and crickets; the croak of the frogs; and the pops of the fish feeding on the surface of the water. As I neared Two Rivers Point I was surprised by an owl which flew right over my head as I passed close to an overhanging branch. The sunset reflected on the river made my destination appear as paradise ahead.
I arrived at the campsite just as the sun began its final descent into the west. The campsite lies on top of a high bank along the south side of the Tensaw River. There is a metal stair affixed to the bank to facilitate getting out of your boat. Since the water drops off at the bank it took some careful maneuvering to get my gear out of the canoe and up the metal stairs to the campsite. I did not want to risk my canoe floating away so I pulled it up the bank and placed my gear back in the boat to keep things organized. I pulled out my camp chair and decided to watch the sunset.
As soon as the sun turned from yellow to orange the mosquitoes appeared in the hundreds, then thousands. This is when I realized I had forgotten to bring the bug spray.
To be continued…
Friday, August 15, 2008
What Happened to the Pier
when we were visiting for no reason.
Storms had blown and it had been rebuilt before.
What happened to the pier, the town, the people?
To the children who ran when Dad said walk?
To the men with buckets and nets and hopes for dinner?
To the long walk with no destination?
Friday, August 8, 2008
BARTRAM CANOE TRAIL
THE BARTRAM CANOE TRAIL is an excellent resource for paddlers and outdoor enthusiasts. The trail consists of well-marked water routes through the Mobile-Tensaw Delta with camping facilities. Use of the trail is free, but use of the camping areas requires reservations which are available on-line for a nominal fee.
The Bartram Canoe Trail was planned and executed by the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources (ADCNR). I believe the State Lands Division was the main proponent and facilitator of the project.
Maps of the trails, suggested one-day and multi-day trips, and reservation information are available on the ADCNR website at http://www.outdooralabama.com/. This is a great website for all kinds of outdoor recreation opportunities in Alabama, so check it out.
A Few Things To Keep In Mind
I am a fairly recent emigrant to Baldwin County, having moved here in 1995 after graduating from law school. After graduation I decided I wanted to work near the mountains or the sea. When I was offered a job with the DA's Office in Bay Minette, I chose the sea. I had spent summers at the beaches of Gulf Shores and Perdido Key and, while I knew about the Delta, I had no idea it was such a great place to explore and enjoy.
I think most people are ignorant of the true nature of the Delta. Many people believe the Delta is too forbidding and dangerous. While it is wilderness, as long as you keep that in mind and follow the proper precautions you should be okay. The Bartram Canoe Trail provides much needed guidance and opens up the area to people who normally would not be able to enjoy it.
The wildlife is probably the foremost concern on most people's minds when they think of the Delta. There are some animals in the Delta that could hurt you. There are alligators, snakes, wild pigs, bear (mostly confined to a small area around Saraland I am told), and millions, probably billions of mosquitoes. Honestly, unless you do something stupid, you have little to fear from most of these animals. The ones you will encounter are the mosquitoes.
I have read the mosquito is responsible for the deaths of many more people every year than any other living creature on earth (including humans). One trip to the Delta without bug spray or other protection will make the reason clear in your mind. I do not think there have been any cases of malaria lately, but West Nile Virus and Encephalitis have shown up around here. Even if they are not carrying these terrible diseases their bite is bad enough. Mosquitoes are relentless and hungry and there are millions of them. More on this later.
The other concern is getting lost. In many areas modern conveniences like GPS and cell phones make this less of a concern. But cell phone and even GPS satellite coverage is not guaranteed in the Delta. It is easy to get turned around in the generally flat terrain and winding creeks where everything can begin to look the same. Be sure to take good maps and a compass (and the knowledge of how to use them) and pay attention to where you are and where you are going.
Every few years someone ends up spending the night in the Delta when they were not prepared to do so. The accounts of nights in the Delta with no tent, no sleeping bag, and no food are never pleasant. The people who stay put, build a fire, conserve energy and keep their wits always do better than the ones who try to hike out of the swamp in the dark.
Delta Discovery
My first foray into the Delta was short fishing trips on Bay Minette Basin, a tributary of the Tensaw River just north of Spanish Fort, Alabama. Bay Minette Basin has in recent years become part of the development boom in Baldwin County, but in 1997 there were only a few houses built. I think I fished the Basin twice and never caught a single fish. I later learned it is a good place to go after striped bass, but I was targeting largemouth and redfish along the banks and was not doing it well apparently.
I did get a taste of the Delta's beauty that day. I took this photograph of the sunset from the mouth of Bay Minette Basin into the Tensaw River. The sun appears to be setting just north of Mobile. The airplane producing the contrail at the top of the photo was probably landing at the Mobile Aiport. When you are in the Delta, except for the occasional airplane flying overhead, you will at times feel there couldn't be anyone around for miles and miles.
It wasn't until May of 2003 that I really got a look at the interior of the Delta. I took a boat trip with some ADCNR Lands Division employees to take a look at some of the environmental challenges we were planning to address. The Lands Division had acquired several large tracts of land in the Delta and was in the planning stages of the Bartram Canoe Trail and other uses of the land. What I saw opened my eyes to the vastness, the unbelievable beauty and the opportunity to get away.
Soon thereafter, my wife, Paige and I decided we would take a canoe trip on Rice Creek. We loaded up the canoe and drove to Stockton in North Baldwin County where the put-in is just outside of town. We had a great time on the creek and wanted to do more exploring. When some friends from New Orleans came in town a few weeks later we thought it would be an excellent diversion for them.
We had four paddlers on this trip so we took our canoe and two kayaks. Paige's cousin, Kelley and her friend Thang made up the party. Thang paddled the Ocean Kayak Scrambler sit-on-top; the two ladies took the canoe; and I paddled my old Perception Sea Lion sea kayak.
We set our goal as the Indian Mound on Bottle Creek with the option of diversions and complete abandonment of the plan according to our whim. This turned out to be a good policy since the tide was flowing by the time we got to Bayou Jessamine and we just did not want to work that hard to get to Bottle Creek.
I have to say here I prefer the canoe to the kayak in the Delta. There are times it is necessary to get out of the boat and pull the boat over obstructions in the creeks. Getting in and out of an enclosed kayak is just too much trouble. That is just my opinion. Lots of people kayak up there and are perfectly happy doing it.
I'll never forget paddling up Bayou Jessamine that day and hearing a yelp from Thang. He was paddling the sit-on-top, which leaves the paddler rather exposed, when he brushed up against a branch sticking out of the water. A big spider jumped on his leg from the branch and Thang was in the water a split second later. I was very concerned because of the possibility of alligators, snakes, current, etc, but he did not consider those things. He just swam directly to the right bank, climbed out and deliberately checked his cigarettes to be sure they were not wet. Some people have different priorities.
Meanwhile I turned my 17' long kayak and went after his now free floating kayak. Paige and Kelley in the canoe had the same idea and we collided in the rush to get the boat before it was wept away. The canoe then allided with the left bank and I heard a couple of screams as the ladies noticed the huge water mocassin which fled into the water next to their boat. We were able to get the kayak back to Thang, but I could not help think how lucky Thang was to have chosen the right bank rather than the left!
Well, this story is getting rather long, so I am going to post this part as a first installment. Maybe you will be interested enough to check back for Part II of the story in a few days?
Coming next:
Solo Adventure, and more!
The Bartram Canoe Trail was planned and executed by the Alabama Department of Conservation and Natural Resources (ADCNR). I believe the State Lands Division was the main proponent and facilitator of the project.
Maps of the trails, suggested one-day and multi-day trips, and reservation information are available on the ADCNR website at http://www.outdooralabama.com/. This is a great website for all kinds of outdoor recreation opportunities in Alabama, so check it out.
A Few Things To Keep In Mind
I am a fairly recent emigrant to Baldwin County, having moved here in 1995 after graduating from law school. After graduation I decided I wanted to work near the mountains or the sea. When I was offered a job with the DA's Office in Bay Minette, I chose the sea. I had spent summers at the beaches of Gulf Shores and Perdido Key and, while I knew about the Delta, I had no idea it was such a great place to explore and enjoy.
I think most people are ignorant of the true nature of the Delta. Many people believe the Delta is too forbidding and dangerous. While it is wilderness, as long as you keep that in mind and follow the proper precautions you should be okay. The Bartram Canoe Trail provides much needed guidance and opens up the area to people who normally would not be able to enjoy it.
The wildlife is probably the foremost concern on most people's minds when they think of the Delta. There are some animals in the Delta that could hurt you. There are alligators, snakes, wild pigs, bear (mostly confined to a small area around Saraland I am told), and millions, probably billions of mosquitoes. Honestly, unless you do something stupid, you have little to fear from most of these animals. The ones you will encounter are the mosquitoes.
I have read the mosquito is responsible for the deaths of many more people every year than any other living creature on earth (including humans). One trip to the Delta without bug spray or other protection will make the reason clear in your mind. I do not think there have been any cases of malaria lately, but West Nile Virus and Encephalitis have shown up around here. Even if they are not carrying these terrible diseases their bite is bad enough. Mosquitoes are relentless and hungry and there are millions of them. More on this later.
The other concern is getting lost. In many areas modern conveniences like GPS and cell phones make this less of a concern. But cell phone and even GPS satellite coverage is not guaranteed in the Delta. It is easy to get turned around in the generally flat terrain and winding creeks where everything can begin to look the same. Be sure to take good maps and a compass (and the knowledge of how to use them) and pay attention to where you are and where you are going.
Every few years someone ends up spending the night in the Delta when they were not prepared to do so. The accounts of nights in the Delta with no tent, no sleeping bag, and no food are never pleasant. The people who stay put, build a fire, conserve energy and keep their wits always do better than the ones who try to hike out of the swamp in the dark.
Delta Discovery
My first foray into the Delta was short fishing trips on Bay Minette Basin, a tributary of the Tensaw River just north of Spanish Fort, Alabama. Bay Minette Basin has in recent years become part of the development boom in Baldwin County, but in 1997 there were only a few houses built. I think I fished the Basin twice and never caught a single fish. I later learned it is a good place to go after striped bass, but I was targeting largemouth and redfish along the banks and was not doing it well apparently.
I did get a taste of the Delta's beauty that day. I took this photograph of the sunset from the mouth of Bay Minette Basin into the Tensaw River. The sun appears to be setting just north of Mobile. The airplane producing the contrail at the top of the photo was probably landing at the Mobile Aiport. When you are in the Delta, except for the occasional airplane flying overhead, you will at times feel there couldn't be anyone around for miles and miles.It wasn't until May of 2003 that I really got a look at the interior of the Delta. I took a boat trip with some ADCNR Lands Division employees to take a look at some of the environmental challenges we were planning to address. The Lands Division had acquired several large tracts of land in the Delta and was in the planning stages of the Bartram Canoe Trail and other uses of the land. What I saw opened my eyes to the vastness, the unbelievable beauty and the opportunity to get away.
Soon thereafter, my wife, Paige and I decided we would take a canoe trip on Rice Creek. We loaded up the canoe and drove to Stockton in North Baldwin County where the put-in is just outside of town. We had a great time on the creek and wanted to do more exploring. When some friends from New Orleans came in town a few weeks later we thought it would be an excellent diversion for them.
We had four paddlers on this trip so we took our canoe and two kayaks. Paige's cousin, Kelley and her friend Thang made up the party. Thang paddled the Ocean Kayak Scrambler sit-on-top; the two ladies took the canoe; and I paddled my old Perception Sea Lion sea kayak.
We set our goal as the Indian Mound on Bottle Creek with the option of diversions and complete abandonment of the plan according to our whim. This turned out to be a good policy since the tide was flowing by the time we got to Bayou Jessamine and we just did not want to work that hard to get to Bottle Creek.
I have to say here I prefer the canoe to the kayak in the Delta. There are times it is necessary to get out of the boat and pull the boat over obstructions in the creeks. Getting in and out of an enclosed kayak is just too much trouble. That is just my opinion. Lots of people kayak up there and are perfectly happy doing it.
I'll never forget paddling up Bayou Jessamine that day and hearing a yelp from Thang. He was paddling the sit-on-top, which leaves the paddler rather exposed, when he brushed up against a branch sticking out of the water. A big spider jumped on his leg from the branch and Thang was in the water a split second later. I was very concerned because of the possibility of alligators, snakes, current, etc, but he did not consider those things. He just swam directly to the right bank, climbed out and deliberately checked his cigarettes to be sure they were not wet. Some people have different priorities.
Meanwhile I turned my 17' long kayak and went after his now free floating kayak. Paige and Kelley in the canoe had the same idea and we collided in the rush to get the boat before it was wept away. The canoe then allided with the left bank and I heard a couple of screams as the ladies noticed the huge water mocassin which fled into the water next to their boat. We were able to get the kayak back to Thang, but I could not help think how lucky Thang was to have chosen the right bank rather than the left!
Well, this story is getting rather long, so I am going to post this part as a first installment. Maybe you will be interested enough to check back for Part II of the story in a few days?
Coming next:
Solo Adventure, and more!
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Slippin' Off
Slippin' Off was a 1978 Mako 19A. She was a great boat, solid as a rock despite her age. I bought her from a boat dealer in Birmingham, Alabama in 1998.I was told she had been used as a flats boat in the Florida Keys. There were stickers on the hull for the Florida Keys Professional Guide Association and the Ismoralda Island Professional Guide Association. I was told the guide service that used the boat sold her when the newer shallow draft flats boats came out. The Mako 19A is a deep V hull and poling Slippin' Off through flats, especially with some wind, must have been difficult.
Apparently she spent several years tied to a dock at a lake in Georgia before being sold to the Birmingham dealer. She was in pretty bad shape cosmeticaly when I bought her. Someone had stolen the original teak compartment covers so I fashioned replacements from plywood. They didn't hold up well and I eventually had to replace them with Starboard covers. I re-wired the entire boat in '98 and added electronics and other equipment over the years.
My mother insisted I take the loop off the S in the painted on name Slippin' Off, because the loop made the S look like an F, and Flippin' Off just wouldn't be an appropriate name.
I traded in Slippin' Off last summer to help pay for a re-power on our nicer, bigger and newer Boston Whaler Outrage 22 (yipee!). I don't really regret trading her in because a local guy bought her and is giving her the attention she deserves.
My wife, Paige and I had some real adventures in Slippin' Off. In fact, I bought Slippin' Off right after I met her and we fell in love during the same time I was just getting to know the boat. The picture above was taken during a trip to Petite Bois Island off the coast of Mississippi in early January of 2000.
Paige had a job writing an article about the Gulf Islands National Seashore for Southern Breeze Magazine. We packed up our camping gear, food, water and warm clothes and set off across Mobile Bay to Dauphin Island. We found our planning was lacking when we arrived at Dauphin Island expecting to be able to top off the gas tank only to find all the marinas closed for the season. We decided to risk it (crazy, yes, we would never do such a thing now that we have a child) and continued on our journey to Petite Bois.
Paige wasn't too comfortable crossing the current-churned pass between Dauphin Island and Petite Bois, but Slippin' Off did just fine. It's a good thing becasue we probably would not have survived a swim in the cold Mississippi Sound waters.
We found a nice protected cove where we were able to pull the boat out of the surf and set up camp nearby. It was pretty cold that night and, although there was plenty of driftwood to burn, the wind kept us from enjoying a hot fire. We turned in early and woke up early to enjoy a cup of coffee with the sunrise. We had planned to get an early start back to home but the tide had gone out considerably and we had to wait a few hours for Slippin' Off to float again. Nature has a way of slowing things down for you like that.
We did enjoy the morning and eventually pushed off for Dauphin Island with hopes of finding some gas. The pass was not as trecherous as it had been the day before and we were able to buy some gas at a marina at Dauphin Island. I remember Mobile Bay was smooth as glass that morning and we could not have asked for a more beautiful boat ride.
Unfortunately the 1979 Johnson 140 didn't survive the trip. We made it halfway up Weeks Bay almost to the mouth of the Magnolia River when the motor started sputtering badly. I think the water pump must have gotten clogged with sand and the motor just burned up. We were able to limp home on one cylinder but that was the end of that motor.
Luckily I was able to find a trade-in 1982 Johnson 115 to replace the burned out motor without breaking the bank. I imagine the new owner of Slippin' Off will have to do a re-power before too long, but the 115 did just fine while I had it.
While my little story is mostly about the boat, Paige wrote a delightful and informative story on the Gulf Islands National Seashore which you may be able to find on-line.
I would definitely recommend a visit to any of the islands in the Gulf Islands National Seashore. I understand they have taken a beating in the last few hurricaines, but they are still there and they belong to all of us. There are some great resources on-line for information about the islands and the recreational opportunities they provide. They are visited by sailors, motorboaters and even a few sea kayakers.
Wednesday, August 6, 2008
WILDFLOWER AT MISSISSIPPI SANDHILL CRANE RESERVE
I took this photo at the Mississippi Sandhill Crane National Wildlife Refuge near Gauthier, Mississippi. Does anyone know the name of this flower?
Check out the Refuge at:
http://www.fws.gov/mississippisandhillcrane/index.html
Welcome to Tievelaney West
Thanks for visiting my new blog!
In case you are wondering: Tievelaney is the name of the old Monaghan family farm in Ireland. Our cousins still own and operate it as a working farm.
My father tells a story about his brother, my Uncle Barney, visiting Ireland in the nineteen-fifties and finding the old farm using an old family rhyme: "My name is Monaghan, I come from Tievelaney, eight miles from Castleblayney and six miles from Carrickmacross."
As I remember the story, Uncle Barney used a map and divider to derive the two spots on the map eight miles from Castleblayney and six miles from Carrickmacross. One point was in a field and the other was on a lake. Uncle Barney decided to try the lake first and told his driver to take him to the location. There was an old farmhouse near the lake.
Uncle Barney got out of the car and approached the farmhouse. Now, Uncle Barney, being an Oxford man, was a dapper fellow, always dressed well, three piece suit and such. When he knocked on the door no one answered.
Uncle barney looked into the fields and saw several men working, also in suits. He went down to the fields and introduced himself as Barney Monaghan from Alabama. The man introduced himself as Ted Monaghan. Ted and the rest went back to the farmhouse with Barney and had some tea. It turned out there were several women in the house but, with the troubles in Ireland strangers in suits showing up unannounced were understandably met with caution, so they did not answer the door.
Uncle Barney explained his purpose and recited the rhyme and was recognized as a member of the family long lost and was welcomed as if coming home.
I visited my cousins at Tievelaney in 1989. They were very friendly and seemed like old friends. I would like to visit again. I live in Alabama, a long distance west of the old farm, so it may be some time before I see it again.
So, Tievelaney West will be the name of my blog, in recognition of the old family and the new world we have before us. I hope you, the reader, will enjoy my posts. If you are from the old country, or the new, I would love to hear from you.
In case you are wondering: Tievelaney is the name of the old Monaghan family farm in Ireland. Our cousins still own and operate it as a working farm.
My father tells a story about his brother, my Uncle Barney, visiting Ireland in the nineteen-fifties and finding the old farm using an old family rhyme: "My name is Monaghan, I come from Tievelaney, eight miles from Castleblayney and six miles from Carrickmacross."
As I remember the story, Uncle Barney used a map and divider to derive the two spots on the map eight miles from Castleblayney and six miles from Carrickmacross. One point was in a field and the other was on a lake. Uncle Barney decided to try the lake first and told his driver to take him to the location. There was an old farmhouse near the lake.
Uncle Barney got out of the car and approached the farmhouse. Now, Uncle Barney, being an Oxford man, was a dapper fellow, always dressed well, three piece suit and such. When he knocked on the door no one answered.
Uncle barney looked into the fields and saw several men working, also in suits. He went down to the fields and introduced himself as Barney Monaghan from Alabama. The man introduced himself as Ted Monaghan. Ted and the rest went back to the farmhouse with Barney and had some tea. It turned out there were several women in the house but, with the troubles in Ireland strangers in suits showing up unannounced were understandably met with caution, so they did not answer the door.
Uncle Barney explained his purpose and recited the rhyme and was recognized as a member of the family long lost and was welcomed as if coming home.
I visited my cousins at Tievelaney in 1989. They were very friendly and seemed like old friends. I would like to visit again. I live in Alabama, a long distance west of the old farm, so it may be some time before I see it again.
So, Tievelaney West will be the name of my blog, in recognition of the old family and the new world we have before us. I hope you, the reader, will enjoy my posts. If you are from the old country, or the new, I would love to hear from you.
More to come...
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